Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Tiny cymbidium orchids bloom well indoors: Ask OSU Extension


by Michael Loos/Ohio State University Extension
Wednesday December 24, 2008, 8:00 AM

Q: Earlier this month, I was given a cymbidium orchid. How do I take care of it?

A: Many genera of orchids make great indoor houseplants. Cymbidium orchids are among the showiest. A well-grown plant can bloom for eight to 12 weeks indoors. I had one in my college dormitory room that lasted the entire winter quarter.

It is said that many orchids are unusually beautiful in bloom and unusually modest in leaf. Cymbidium are attractive all season. The leaves are long and strap-shaped. Texturally, they are a good foil to other houseplants. In bloom, cymbidium are spectacular. Up to 50 flowers per spike grace plants during their long blooming season.


If purchasing your own plant, look for miniature and ultraminiature, or teacup, cymbidium. These smaller selections are more easily grown in the house. They are more adaptable to the indoor household environment. While their larger cousins require cool temperatures, the smaller selections grow very well in the same conditions we like.

Bright light is imperative. Without it, cymbidium will languish. Keep plants moist, but not sodden. The growing medium should be very well drained. Fir bark, coir chips, and long-fibered sphagnum will allow the plant to be moist but well aerated. Place outside in late May, keep evenly moist and fertilize heavily in summer; reduce fertilization in August to help bud set and allow the plant to remain out of doors well into October. Cool night temperatures will initiate flower production. Bring the plant back indoors, keeping it at about 60 degrees Fahrenheit and in full sun. Your cymbidium should bloom any time between November and April, depending upon its background.

Q: I always wanted to grow bonsai. Where do I start?

A: Start with a good book. There are numerous, excellent books on the subject. The Internet can be a great tool. One thing to remember. There are many rules about bonsai. Learn them well; then learn the most effective ways to break them. Use the rules as guides to the art. There are few specimen trees that precisely follow the rules. They just had good artists assist in the shaping process.

Keep in mind that there are many people who are successful in growing bonsai. They each have something unique to add. People can be great resources, but do what works for you. Don't be afraid of failure. If you meet a bonsai grower who tells you he has never killed a tree, he's not telling you the truth.

After you have done some research, start with a medium-size tree or nursery plant. Tiny trees are difficult to keep alive. Large trees can be cost prohibitive. Most importantly, like everything else, just do it. "Practice makes perfect."

Q: My cat keeps eating the tinsel in my house. Will this harm him?

A: Antique tinsel will kill a pet or human. It can be distinguished by its heavy weight. It is made from lead and will be poisonous if ingested. Modern tinsel is plastic. It will not be toxic but can lead to bowel distress if consumed in quantity.

I would recommend that you remove the tinsel from the portion of the tree the cat can reach. This may be the entire tree or just the lower portion.

Q: My Boston fern seems to have exploded. There are leaves everywhere. What can I do?

A: Quietly dispatch it to the compost pile. Boston ferns are not indoor friendly in most houses. They require a cool, bright, humid and evenly moist growing environment to succeed indoors in winter. I can't grow them indoors either.

Call a master gardener for advice from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Monday and Thursday at 216-429-8235 or e-mail your questions to mgdiagnostics_cuya@ag.osu.edu anytime. Gardening information is also available here and here. Loos is the horticulture educator of the Ohio State University Extension, Cuyahoga County, 9127 Miles Ave., Cleveland OH 44105.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Steppingstones on the path to plant diversity





by Dulcy Mahar, Special to The Oregonian
Friday December 12, 2008, 3:21 PM

As promised, here's an oversimplified, unscientific "Classic Comics" version of how Northwest gardening, or at least plant selection, has changed during the past three decades. It started with the amazing discovery that there are plants other than rhododendrons.


1. We become Anglophiles: The first toe tip into a diverse plant world was influenced by English gardens with their cottage plants and borders. Petunias and marigolds were out; perennials were in. The Hardy Plant Society began importing English garden aristocrats such as Rosemary Verey and Christopher Lloyd to enchant (or corrupt) us. We were goners under their spell.

Signature plants: Old roses, lilies, lavender, iris, salvia, hardy geraniums, lady's mantle (Alchemilla) and all things soft and romantic.

2. Things look up: Then we began to want something more than a mere "flower garden." Soon we were inserting shrubs and small trees in among the perennials, all the while bemoaning the fact that we hadn't done that first. Taller plants got us to look skyward, and up went trellises and arbors draped with divine vines.

Signature plants: Clematis (an unabated lust); deciduous shrubs; and small ornamental trees such as Styrax, stewartia and the wedding cake dogwood (Cornus controversa 'Variegata').

3. We fall for foliage: Suddenly we were in foliage frenzy. Green was great, but red and gold leaves were hotter. Foliage also provided the new "in" element, texture. And it didn't need deadheading.

Signature plants: Coral flower (Heuchera), smoke bush (Cotinus), gold- and nearly black-leaved elderberries (Sambucus racemosa 'Sutherland Gold' and S. nigra), ninebark (Physocarpus) and ornamental grasses.

4. We get attitude: Was there any other place to go? Oh yes, we wanted what magazines described as "plants with attitude." These plants have strong presence and structure. If English cottage flowers were like cute Yorkies, the attitude plants were more like Afghan hounds.

Signature plants: Euphorbia, New Zealand flax (Phormium), yucca (even I, a former yucca scoffer, am softening), gunnera and that ornamental rhubarb (Rheum palmatum 'Atrosanguineum') that was on the cover of Thomas Hobbs' "Shocking Beauty." Didn't everyone want that?

5. Things heat up: Everyone rushed to name the new trend: tropicalisimo, pushing the envelope, zonal denial. At some point, this morphed from true tropicals, which had to be brought inside in winter, to semi-hardy perennials that might live over without protection and might not. We were willing to take the chance. Someone even declared ours a Mediterranean climate because of mild winters and dry summers. Still, it doesn't look like Capri outside.

Signature plants: Canna, Aeonium, flowering maple (Abutilon), angel's trumpet (Brugmansia), elephant's ear (Colocasia), kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos), Echeveria and the bananas I manage to kill every year.

6. Plant lust takes hold: A byproduct of the lust for new plants was the gravitation toward collections. For example, if you loved the new red-leaved Heuchera cultivars, you had to try all the gold and peach-leaved versions. We pursued new cultivars like the Holy Grail.

Signature plants: Podophyllum, Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema), fairy bells (Disporum), Smilacina, Cardiocrinum giganteum and anything that seems to have been hunted down in exotic corners of the world by our intrepid plant explorer Dan Hinkley.

7. Some go au naturel: Northwest gardeners with shady plots had always noticed our climate and surrounding greenery were hospitable to an Asian garden, but most didn't want to follow the rigid rules applied in true Japanese and Chinese gardens. Instead, they developed gardens that suggested Asian elements but also were comfortably Northwesty, elegant and easy to maintain. We called the look fusion.

Signature plants: Hydrangea, hosta, hardy fuchsia, hellebore, heavenly bamboo (Nandina), conifers, ferns and native ground covers.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Scientists explore nature’s designs: Physical chemist Joanna Aizenberg imitates structures found in nature


Abstract:
As a graduate student, Harvard physical chemist Joanna Aizenberg acquired a passionate curiosity about — of all things — sponges. She particularly liked the ones made of glass, whose apparent fragility belied the fact that they could withstand terrific pressure in the deep sea.

Sponges are now among the central artifacts in an emerging branch of science Aizenberg is helping to pioneer: biomimetics. That's the study of whatever nature does well — and how that may inspire better tools, materials, and processes.

Scientists explore nature’s designs: Physical chemist Joanna Aizenberg imitates structures found in nature
Cambridge, MA | Posted on December 7th, 2008
Aizenberg is particularly interested in how living organisms form robust and elegant inorganic structures. The glass fibers framing those deep-sea sponges, for instance, are stronger and more optically efficient than anything humankind can yet make.

She outlined the nature of her work in an abundantly illustrated lecture Nov. 19 at the Radcliffe Gymnasium, "Connecting Engineering, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, and Architecture Through Biomimetics."

Aizenberg — a trained mathematician and chemist who earned a doctorate in the biology of materials — has the chops to connect all those disciplines. She is the Gordon McKay Professor of Materials Science at the Harvard School of Engineering and Applied Sciences (SEAS) and the Susan S. and Kenneth L. Wallach Professor at the Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study, where she is a fellow this year.

To illustrate the kind of work done at her SEAS laboratory, Aizenberg focused on Venus' Flower Basket, a milky-looking undulant sponge shaped like a tapering tube. Though common in hobbyist's aquariums, it is native to the deep ocean, thriving in cold, crushing pressures a thousand feet below the surface.

For materials scientists like Aizenberg, Venus' Flower Basket is an intriguing package. At 500 million years old, it's very low on the evolutionary tree. But its layered superstructure of glass illustrates how strong nature makes things, and with what apparent ease.

The first commercially practical glass fibers were not invented until the 1930s, said Aizenberg, yet "sponges knew how to do it a half-billion years ago."

And they knew how to do it better, she pointed out. The glass fibers of Venus' Flower Basket are a hundred times stronger than the man-made version. Intricately layered, and reinforced with a still-mysterious glue, these glass fibers stop cracks fast.

The sponge also forms glass fibers at ambient temperatures and without any special steps. Man-made glass fibers require high temperatures — 2,000 degrees F — as well as chemical treatments in an expensive and energy-intensive "clean" lab.

Low temperatures also assure that the hollow centers of the sponge's glass fibers, though only 200 nanometers wide, are not deformed by intense heat.

Both man-made and sponge glass fibers "guide light," said Aizenberg, but nature does it better. Along the length of a sponge's glass fiber, spines multiply the efficiency of collecting light from nearby biophosphorescent organisms. "You can think of it as a Christmas tree," she said. "Not just the tip collects light."

Venus' Flower Basket illustrates nature's grasp of optics, said Aizenberg, but it also offers insight into architecture.

The resilient sponge is made of square cells reinforced by strutlike diagonal buttresses. In fact, a very modern principle of design and civil engineering, she said, "is present in this [cellular] structure."

But these robust structures are present on a nanoscale, mechanically stable because of layered hollow glass fibers a hundredth as wide as a human hair. If they could be replicated at that scale, the resulting man made materials would be all the stronger. This is a "rich system," said Aizenberg, and studying it may prompt the design of new materials.

The Venus' Flower Basket may even offer new ways of looking at human-scale architecture — lessons in how structures best respond to force, for instance. The sponge is attached to the ocean floor, an anchoring point where shifting currents exert the highest stresses. But the sponge has evolved a clever strategy, connecting itself to the seabed by a system of flexible fibers. This swaying glass structure, said an admiring Aizenberg, "can survive any pressure that you can imagine."

She has already used models from the sea to inspire invention. A few years ago, while with Bell Laboratories at Lucent Technologies, she helped prove that crystalline optical arrays on the arms of the brittle star, a relative of the starfish, focus light better than any man-made device.

Mimicking nature's strategy — in this case, fluid pigment transfer — led to patents and patent applications for a new generation of "tunable" lenses.

But Aizenberg wants to go beyond the lessons nature offers in efficient optics, robust construction, and resilient materials. She is exploring "biomineralization." That's the way nature uses organic catalysts to prompt inorganic materials to "grow" into lenses, glass fibers, and other useful structures.

In the aptly named Aizenberg Biomineralization and Biomimetics Lab at SEAS, researchers are looking into the "self-assembly" of inorganic materials the way nature might do it: efficiently and in ambient temperatures.

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Vibrant witch hazel is a pretty cure-all for a winter woodland fairytale


By Chris Beardshaw
Last updated at 3:58 PM on 01st December 2008

As aftershave or cures for bites and bruises, potent witch hazel has a punchy zing. But the hamamelis plant is far from overpowering and it comes into its own at this time of year.
It belongs to the hamamelidaceae group, a broad range of shrubs and trees that include the autumn colouring parrotia, spring-flowering fothergilla and glowing autumn tints of liquidambar.
Closely related to hazel and rose, in early winter the hamamelis appears as a collection of stiff, broadly upright stems emerging from a single trunk.

In the wild, it can be found in sparse woodlands, scrub and clearings in the mountains of North America and Eastern Asia. This makes it ideal for garden borders, so long as it is sheltered by walls and hedges.
It needs lots of organic matter. Indeed, you can't apply too much well-rotted compost or leaf mould as this fibrous material mimics the dense soils of the wild, ensuring the fine and shallow roots of the plants have plenty of nutrients.
There are a glut of hamamelis plants for sale, but they are bred from only a handful of species.

Hamamelis mollis, the Chinese witch hazel, is widely available. It is a well-behaved, well-proportioned plant, which produces golden yellow blooms on bare branches from December until spring.
These flowers are a curious collection of thin petals bundled together along smooth stems. Each flower has four petals that are fancifully curled in bud, golden on the tip and dark maroon or russet in the heart.
Hamamelis mollis and its many cultivars are known for their sweet fragrance, which is triggered by sunshine. Best-known is goldcrest, a compact plant with scarlet-centred blooms. It is ideal in gardens where the vibrant floral displays are contrasted with a ground cover of lush evergreen ferns, snow-white cyclamen or smoky tinted helleborus orientalis hybrids.
The Japanese witch hazel, hamamelis japonica, is a more open shrub. It appears unkempt and is more suited to wild gardens and woodlands.
It, too, carries yellow blooms, but they are paler, with ruffled edges. The form sulphurea is sought after due to its zesty tones and long flowering period. The finest and most potent fragrance is from the H. mollis, and the hairy foliage of this plant helps distinguish it from the smooth surface of the Chinese forms.
These Eastern plants have been subject to many breeding programmes and one result is hamamelis x intermedia.
The form of this hybrid is more like the hamamelis mollis, as are the large, rounded leaves. Yet it is earlier flowering, flushing with blooms that have retained the much-loved scent, from early winter. Strangely, although neither parent displays petals in orange or red, the hybrid forms of H. X intermedia are particularly showy. If an opulent and rich shade is required, then all-gold is a favourite, but for rusty and copper tints try the tantalising H. Jalena. These combine nicely with drifts of snow-white galanthus.
Due to their smaller and more temperamental flowers, few of the American forms are available in nurseries. But, look out for Sandra, a cultivar which produces intense purple leaves in spring.
Also look out for hamamelis virginiana, which is found in the wild from Ontario to Florida. While it lacks the floral beauty of the Asian species, it is prized for its robust rootstocks and for providing witch hazel medicine, used to reduce swelling and bruising of the skin.
Considered to be some of the finest winter-flowering shrubs, the hamamelis are often over-looked when it comes to foliage displays, but in autumn they are resplendent in deep shades of yellow, orange and red — and often all three.
They are robust plants that rarely suffer from ailments. The most common is foliage bleeding, from lush green to chlorotic yellow. This is generally caused by excess lime in the soil — plants grow in acidic conditions in the wild.
In garden soils where lime is present, opt for the H. Intermedia cultivars, which perform even on a clay soil over lime.
These plants need minimal pruning — just the odd trimming out of dead wood or removal of crossing stems — to develop a handsome structure.
With their warming display and enticing scent, the hamamelis can transform the winter garden.
Enjoy Hamamelis jelena (witch hazel) — winner of the prestigious RHS Award of Garden Merit — bursting with red autumn foliage and elegant coppery orange flowers in early to mid-winter.
Perfect as part of an ever-changing shrub border. Grows to height of 4m (13ft). Buy one root-balled plant for £20.99. Free P& P on all orders.
Please send orders to: Daily Mail Offers, Dept MC163, PO Box 99, Sudbury, Suffolk CO10 2SN.
Cheques should be made out to Daily Mail offers. Order online at plantoffers.com/MC163 or call 0845 155 8725 (quote MC163) for credit/debit card orders. Delivery to UK addresses only. Plants supplied as a root ball, dispatched from February 2009.
Please refer to classified section for full terms & conditions. Your contract for supply of goods is with Thompson & Morgan (YP) Ltd.

Saturday, November 29, 2008

BE A FLOWER HELPER (OR JUST AN ADMIRER) AT THE WORLD’S BIGGEST FLOWER PARADE


December 1, 2008 (Pasadena) — For a unique adventure just up the road, you can help behind the scenes in the days before the Jan. 1st Tournament of Roses Parade in Pasadena. The parade will be seen by 40 million people on Jan. 1 on TV networks including HGTV. Each float is decorated with more flowers than the average florist will use in five years!

You can volunteer to help decorate a float at the Rose Bowl Stadium's Rosemont Pavilion, 700 Seco St., Pasadena (626) 795-4171 or http://www.tournamentofroses.com/ . The Bayer Advanced Garden of Oz float, with a lion, tin man and other characters, is one of many that will have to be covered in flowers in the three days before the parade at this float site, called a “float barn”.

Or, you can arrive for the parade itself Jan. 1 and stay for the post parade “up close” tour of the floats into the first couple days of January. The website gives the details.

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Bough Wow! How to give an instant appeal to your garden with a clever use of trees


TREES are a must-have in any garden – and with National Tree Week starting on November 26 there’s no better time to get planting…

ARCH

Laburnum can create a floral tunnel to link different parts of the garden. Choose the free-flowering variety Vossii, which produces long yellow flowers in June and few of the poisonous seeds.

EXPERT TIP: If laburnum is trained to make a tunnel, pruning is vital to keep the growth in order and encourage flower buds, rather than more foliage.

HOW MUCH? £16.95 from Whispering Tree Nurseries (01366 388752, www.whispering-trees.co.uk).

TREE HOUSE

Kids love dens and a tree house is the ultimate hideaway. If sturdily built, they can also be a fabulous place for adults to read, write and dream.

EXPERT TIP: You’ll need a stout tree with at least two branches spreading in a V-shape from the trunk to support the tree house corners. Otherwise, you’ll need to build it on a platform suspended between two trees and two posts.

HOW MUCH? A custom-made luxury tree house costs from £2,500 from Toys For Boys (01869 278805, www.treeadventures.co.uk).

BIRDS

By putting up a nest box you can help birds and get pleasure from seeing them set up home. If you fix them to trees where birds like to perch they may also be used as a winter roost.

EXPERT TIP: Nest boxes are best put up from August to February. Site them in a quiet part of the garden sheltered from wind, rain and sun. Installing a bird box CCTV camera will add to your enjoyment!

HOW MUCH? Nest box and camera kit £69.95 (01736 756277, www.handykam.com).

CREEPERS

AS many trees have long periods where they provide little interest, it makes sense to brighten them up with flowering climbers. Clematis is a perfect choice.

EXPERT TIP: Plant the clematis away from the direct base of the tree to avoid competition for moisture and nutrients.

HOW MUCH? Four clematis £17 (0844 557 1850, www. vanmeuwen.co.uk).

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Slug rings are a good defence, but also think about beetle banks


Slugs dislike copper - how can you put this to good advantage?
I have a big slug problem in my garden, as I am constantly adding large quantities of organic matter to my soil. I have been using copper with my raised beds to find the best solution. On one bed I have added copper slug tape around the top, which seems to work well but it looks a bit Heath Robinson and is not cheap (4m costs £6.50). I am also adding 10mm copper pipe, hammered out flat around other beds. This will cost around £1.50/m. Copper lightening conductor (12.5mm thick and 1.5mm deep) is another option, but this is more expensive at £3.8m per metre run from Keison International (www.keison.co.uk, 01245 600 560).

I have just painted a thin band of new copper paint on two beds, which is a copper powder which you mix in with an epoxy resin and hardener and apply with a roller. It will cost around £80/ per square metre. Aside from deterring slugs and snails, it also looks decorative and will be available in the spring from Great Grass (www.greatgrass.co.uk; 0845 225 2114).

How about copper tools?
Many gardeners swear by them. This is very difficult to prove scientifically, but I have just bought a trowel (£24) from Implementations (0845 330 3148; www.implementations.co.uk) and am testing it out.

Any new research?
Nargis Gani, a PhD student has finished her research on slugs at Cardiff University, part sponsored by the Processors and Growers Research Organisation (www.pgro.org). Gani found that the common field slug avoided areas previously occupied by its four most common ground beetle predators. When slugs sense the presence of ground beetles they stop, raise the front of their bodies, and wave their heads from side to side, before turning away. Hopefully someone will create a product based on the extract of ground beetles for use as a slug deterrent. In the meantime, encouraging them with beetle banks works well.

How do you make a beetle bank?
Raise your soil by about 1 inch (for drainage) and grow tussocky grass such as Cocksfoot and Timothy. Let it form a thick, undisturbed thatch. This insulates the beetles from extreme temperatures. Add perennials such as yarrow, knapweed and wild carrot to pull in hover flies and ladybirds too. The Game and Wildlife Conservancy Trust (www.gct.org.uk) has measured 1,500 beneficial predators per sq metre.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

The Grounded Gardener: 10 trees for a great fall color display


By MARTY WINGATE
SPECIAL TO THE P-I

Think "fall color" and your mind automatically goes to the genus Acer. Maples offer a huge selection of trees that light up in autumn. But maples aren't the only show in the autumnal garden.

Those gardeners who have lost a maple to verticillium wilt -- a soil-borne fungus -- need to avoid most maples, because the disease persists in the soil. But anyone can enjoy the display put on by the following 10 trees.

Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica) -- The colors range from apricot to red on this pyramid-shaped tree native to the Southeast. It prefers to grow in full sun or part shade, and acid soil. It will put up with wet, poorly drained sites, but also will tolerate dry soil once it's established. Mature size can be 40 feet high and 20 feet wide. 'Autumn Cascade' is a weeping variety.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum) -- Another native of the Southeastern U.S., sourwood shows its membership in the heather family by the fingerlike flower clusters that appear in fall (they look much like the flowers on a Pieris). The flowers show up well against the shocking red-orange color of the foliage. The best autumn color comes from trees planted in full sun. Sourwood has a columnar shape: It grows up to 25 feet high and 15 feet wide.

Beech (Fagus sylvatica) -- Fall turns the European beech from its summer green to warm gold. Its fine form (a large pyramid) and its mature size (60 feet high and 40 wide) can be daunting for smaller gardens. So look for 'Dawyck,' which grows tall but only about 10 feet wide (non-green forms 'Dawyck Purple' and 'Dawyck Gold' are available). Beech leaves make the best crunch underfoot on autumn walks.

Persian ironwood (Parrotia persica) -- Many members of the witch hazel family can be relied on for a good autumn show, and Parrotia is a prime example. Shades of orange, red and scarlet turn green leaves into a multi-hued extravaganza; for the best show, buy one now, so you can see its color. With a visually pleasing spread, the tree reaches about 30 feet high and wide; 'Vanessa' will reach the same height, but not as wide.

Washington hawthorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum) -- Great fall color from this disease-resistant hawthorn, but its ornamental qualities go beyond that: It has glossy green leaves and clusters of white spring flowers that develop into sprigs of red berries, much like a pyracantha (and thorns to match). You're already sold on its characteristics, and then comes the scarlet fall color. The Washington hawthorn grows about 30 feet high and wide.

Raywood ash (Fraxinus angustifolia 'Raywood') -- A fine street tree that offers an interesting turn on autumn color, the 'Raywood' ash turns from green to a chocolate maroon, then fires up into orange. Its compound leaves are divided into narrow leaflets, which gives a soft overall texture to the tree. It grows up to 35 feet high and 25 feet wide.

Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia) -- More often seen as a shrub, but the single-trunk crape myrtles make fabulous small trees, as some gardeners are discovering. Although it's late to leaf out, the new growth makes up for it, glowing bronze-red. Panicles of late-summer flowers age to marble-size fruit, then, in late fall, leaves turn bright red. Overall, it's late, but worth it. Plus, mature bark becomes mottled with patches of gray, pink and brown. Look for: 'Centennial Spirit,' 'Dynamite' or any other selection that has been trained into a tree form (or enjoy it as a large shrub, multi-trunk style).

Japanese stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia) -- A small tree for light shade and protected places, it will repay you many times over for the care you take. Single, white, summer flowers are followed by red and orange fall color. Elegant pointed buds, pretty bronze new growth, flaky bark, a layered branching pattern and 25 feet high and 15 feet wide -- who could ask for anything more?

Ornamental pear (Pyrus) -- White spring flowers and glossy green leaves in summer give you two seasons, and fall color makes it three for ornamental pears. Be choosy when you select a variety, because older cultivars such as 'Capital' are prone to limbs breaking in snow or wind. 'Autumn Blaze' grows 30 feet high and 20 feet wide with scarlet fall color; 'Redspire' is slightly taller with yellow to red fall color.

Ginkgo biloba -- If only those ginkgos near Vantage had made it out of the Miocene period, we could call this a Northwest native tree. Still, it's a fine, tough tree for gardens, streets and public places. Its unusual leaves resemble a maidenhair fern frond. Bright green in summer, they turn to butter-yellow in fall. 'Princeton Sentry' grows 40 feet high and 15 wide; 'Saratoga' as tall and 30 feet wide; 'Autumn Gold' offers stronger fall highlights.

Marty Wingate, a Master Gardener, is the author of two garden books. She can be contacted at: martywin@earthlink.net. Her Web site, including a blog, is martywingate.com.

Friday, October 10, 2008

Thinning and Deadheading


Garden phlox is susceptible to mildew, especially when the plants are growing in dense clumps.

Thinning and deadheading are two measures that add to the good looks of your garden. Thinning refers to selectively eliminating plants or stems. The end result is a more attractive and healthier garden.

To reduce the threat of mildew, improve air circulation by thinning out dense strands of phlox. Cut some stems to the ground.

If your garden contains mildew-prone perennials, such as phlox and beebalm (Monarda didyma), you must ensure adequate air circulation to deter the formation of the fungus. This is simply a matter of periodically cutting enough stems to the ground so that the remaining ones are not crowded. Such surgery in no way harms the plant. Thinning must be done regularly, however, because once mildew sets in it is hard to control without resorting to chemicals.

When deadheading mums and other perennials, cut back the stem to the next set of leaves below the flower head.

One easy way to thin plants is to inspect new shoots in the spring. If—as is often the case with phlox—they appear crowded together, simply cut out the woody center of each clump. Do not simply pick off the old flower heads, or the plants will be left with unattractive bare stems.

Deadheading is a grim-sounding term that describes cutting off the unattractive dead heads of flowers in your beds and borders. While deadheading is not essential, it certainly provides great rewards by prolonging the bloom period of most plants, preventing self-seeders from seeding, and ensuring a freshness and neatness in the garden.

Most plants are genetically programmed to produce seeds. Once seed is produced, the plant’s function is completed and it can appropriately wither or simply settle in as a foliage plant. If you cut the flower before the seed sets, however, the plant must produce another flower in order to fulfill its goal. The glory of modern breeding is the creation of sterile cultivars; these literally do not know how to stop producing flowers. If you wish to reduce deadheading in your perennial garden, choose sterile cultivars.

http://www.caymannetnews.com/news-10634--6-6---.html

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Gardening: The 20 best spring bulbs




Elspeth Thompson chooses the bulbs to plant now and enjoy later

For me there is something unfailingly cheering and hopeful about bulb-planting – it even helped me through the death of a muchloved dog one sad October. It can be tiring if large numbers are involved, so alternate the big naturalistic swaths with handfuls of delicate beauties in pots that can be brought inside when coming into bloom – and keep plenty of plant labels, sharpened pencils, hot soup and Radio 3 to hand. As this year's leaves are yellowing and falling to the ground, it's heartening to be lighting the touch-paper of next spring's growth. For, once set beneath their blanket of soil and watered in, these nuggets of concentrated life will be imperceptibly stirring towards their moment of glory in a few months' time.
Best planted indoors, in pots of soil or in glass bowls filled with pebbles and water, with the bases of the bulbs just touching the surface. Their fragrance will fill a room.

Monday, September 15, 2008

How to give your garden autumn impact


Rather than hanging up your trowel this autumn, you could take the opportunity to introduce some fabulous seasonal stunners to your plot.

Right now your garden centre is packed with an amazing array of autumnal bloomers just waiting to be planted. Here’s my choice..

Pretty in pink: Japanese anemones – x hybrida

Perfect for anyone who loves pink or white classic flowers, this herbaceous perennial will produce a fantastic flower-covered clump 3ft or 4ft (90-120cm) tall.

The flowers thrive best in shady, moist soil but will perform well just about anywhere. They also make great cut flowers.

Butterfly magnet: Sedum spectabile

These wonderful fleshy-leaved plants do best in a really sunny and freely drained spot, producing masses of flat flowerheads composed of zillions of dusky pink star-like flowers.

If, like me, you have a heavy soil, they still do well but don’t last quite so many years. This is also a great plant for attracting butterflies, which cover the blooms to feed from their nectar. If you like white flowers, go for iceberg.

Triple whammy: Cyclamen europaeum

This magical plant comes with heart-shaped dark green leaves, each marbled with white patterns, and rich pink flowers with a distinct perfume. It does best in a limey and fairly moist, but not wet, soil in partial shade. They look wonderful growing beneath a large shrub or tree and after a few years will multiply and spread.

Autumn classic: Chrysanthemums

Bedding chrysanths come in a range of classic colours. My favourites are the mahoganies and golds, which make a wonderful addition to the front of a small border or patio pot. Light shade or sun suits them best. Mostly they’re treated as annuals and discarded once winter comes, but if you’ve got a greenhouse you can often keep them for the following year.

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Mellow yellow: Sternbergia lutea – the autumn daffodil

This hardy bulb loves a well-drained alkaline soil and plenty of sun. It will reward you with bright yellow cup-shaped flowers, rather like giant crocuses. It’s great in a rock garden, at the edge of a sunny bed, or planting hole in your patio.

Dizzy daisy: Rudbeckia fulgida – cone flower

These dizzily pretty, bright yellow daisies with their prominent dark brown, raised centres thrive in sun or partial shade.

The variety Goldstrum is one of my favourites but all are great value at this time of year. The shadier the spot, the better they like it and the taller they grow.

Bright things: Dahlias

Red, yellow, orange, white or cream, there’s a dahlia for everyone. They’re easily grown from seed or tubers planted earlier in the year, or you’ll be able to pick plants in flower now in your local garden centre. A sunny spot with a moist soil works best.

Simply stunning: Crocosmias

With their elegant arching flower spikes clad with starry orange, red or golden flowers and sword-like leaves, these flowers are simply irresistible.

A sunny spot that’s well drained yet regularly supplied with water in the drier months makes a perfect site – great in flowerbeds or good-sized pots.

Pippa Greenwood has presented her own series, Growing Science, on Radio 4 for three years and is a regular panelist on the station’s Gardeners’ Question Time. She’s also written many books including Pippa Greenwood’s Gardening Year (Headline, £16.99).

Send us pictures of your garden and your tips, and we’ll print the best ones. Your Life, Daily Mirror, 1 Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London E14 5AP; email pippagreenwood@mirror.co.uk

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Slow Food Nation Victory Garden Stays For Now



That flower and vegetable garden at Civic Center -- the one that will, eventually, allow all of us to eat cake, or whatever -- gets a stay of execution. Since there has been a dubious "outpouring of public support" for the garden since its installation in early July," Mayor Gavin Newsom plans on keeping that garden in front of city hall until root vegetable season. Yay. We guess.

What is the Victory Garden, you ask? Well, it makes people feel good about themselves, for one. Also, the garden, it seems, involves World Wars I & II and something called "food miles." Check it:

About Victory Gardens 2008+ Victory Gardens 2008+ is a program of Garden for the Environment and the City of San Francisco's Department for the Environment. A two-year pilot project to support the transition of backyard, front yard, window boxes, rooftops and unused land into organic food production areas, Victory Gardens 2008+ derives its title from, and build on, the successful nationwide Victory Garden programs of WWI and WWII. Victory Gardens 2008+, however, redefines "Victory" in the pressing context of urban sustainability. "Victory" is growing food at home for increased local food security and reducing the food miles associated with the average American meal.
Anyway, you have until November to see it before the Victory Garden gets raped and pillaged by a horde of Black and Decker Weed Whackers.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Get ready for fall


Donna Balzer, CanWest News Service
Published: Saturday, August 23, 2008
Just as gardeners get things right and ready, it seems the evenings cool and systems start to fail. If you've been away, you know there's some work to do when you arrive home, but even if you are at home it can be a certainty to walk out in the garden one morning to the sinking feeling that things have changed.

Just before I took off last week for a little beach time, I noticed things beginning to falter and took some action by cutting back certain plants.

First off we had hail. This isn't by itself troublesome for plants, although it does create a bit of a mess. After cutting back annual flower stems that were stripped of blooms and leaves I then started randomly cutting back perennials. Luckily I didn't get the kind of hail damage that dents cars and pierces tree bark. When that happens, it could mean trouble because the pierced bark is open to infection and invites fungal and insect problems.

A tree with this kind of hail damage can only be watched -- rather than pruned -- because we just don't know where or when it will start attracting pests or diseases. Any leaves remaining on a hail-affected tree should be left in place and not reduced further with additional pruning.

RATTY PERENNIALS

But back to the ratty perennials. Yes, there were a few perennials damaged by hail, but others were simply and suddenly less than appealing to me. As I was removing hail damage, I started removing perfectly good plants that had just worn out their welcome. Some very tall tarragon that I had previously used to flavour soup suddenly seemed tall and weedy. And my oregano had reseeded everywhere while I wasn't looking, so I decided to leave one or two small seedlings, but the main plant had to go.

In a very tiny yard, plants that aren't useful for more than one thing in more than one season can't be justified.

Meanwhile, people have been phoning me during my CBC radio show about early signs of powdery mildew on their plants. I looked extra hard but didn't see the telltale signs of this fungus on any of my plants.

If you notice white spots on caragana leaves, it's likely a fungus commonly called powdery mildew.

Early studies have shown that aerated compost tea applied regularly before any signs of fungus appear can reduce or eliminate damage, but once the signs of fungus are noticed, it is too late to do anything.

Suddenly, older lower leaves are black and hanging on but are obviously distressed.

Because there are no easy organic options effective in controlling mildew once it is showing, most gardeners use the old school cutting back method.

With the sexual stage suddenly right around the bend with its small black fruiting bodies on the leaves, it is good to cut the plants back now. If left in the garden once the spore stage is obvious, the fungus over-winters.

In our climate, gardeners with early signs of mildew might want to remove leaves affected as they work in their garden this month.

Yes, the trouble will go away once our first frost comes but if there are signs of fruiting bodies, the disease will be back in full force next summer.

In other words, it's time to get out the shears to removed hail damage and fungal damage and just plain old ugly plant damage.

ON THE WEB

- Excellent information about powdery mildew from the University of Guelph can be found at uoguelph.ca

- For more about aerated compost tea: check out soilfoodweb.com or healthycalgary.ca

Friday, August 22, 2008

How to grow: Scabiosa caucasica


The large, lavender-blue flowers of the Caucasian scabious (S. caucasica) have been a cut-flower staple for 150 years or more. But I value these frilly flowers for the contribution they make in the garden rather than the vase. These silver-washed beauties shine in July, August and September, when sunny yellows and oranges dominate. Their delicate presence is a gentle relic of a summer almost gone.

Scabiosa caucasica was introduced into Britain in 1803 after seed collected from the Caucasus was sent to the Hackney nurseryman George Loddiges. In the wild it is found in cool meadows and in the garden this plant seems to peak once the heat of summer starts to wane.

'Clive Greaves' is a selected seedling originally grown by market gardener James House, who ran a successful nursery near Bristol. The House family had previously dubbed a white form 'Miss Willmott' in honour of Ellen Willmott who gardened at Warley Place in Essex. They also developed their own seed strain, usually known as House's hybrids, which are still available from Thompson & Morgan as young plants and seed (01473 695225; www. thompson-morgan.com).

'Clive Greaves', launched in 1929, has outperformed the others thanks to its strong constitution and free-flowering habit and has never been bettered. The real Clive Greaves was a racy young salesman who worked for Hewitt's Nursery in Solihull. He promised to sell any plant named after him in huge quantities - and succeeded. But if the teetotal James House had realised how good a plant 'Clive Greaves' was, he would never have named it after a man reputedly fond of wine, women and song.

However, the lavender-blue 'Clive Greaves' became popular quickly and has survived for nearly 80 years. Admittedly, there are more striking blue selections of S. caucasica. 'Fama' is an intense purple-blue with a silvery centre and 'Stafa' is a light-centred darker blue. But both are less floriferous and harder to place than 'Clive Greaves'.

All scabious are highly attractive to bees and butterflies. Our summer-flowering native, Scabiosa columbaria, is a compact, filigree-leaved plant with wiry stems topped by tiny Cambridge-blue pincushions. But perhaps the best small-flowered scabious of all is the sterile hybrid 'Butterfly Blue' - sometimes wrongly sold as 'Irish Perpetual'. It will flower continually from June until late autumn, whether dead-headed or not. This first-rate perennial is often sold in bright pink pots that doesn't exactly encourage the serious gardener. But I'm glad I overcame my prejudice. However, the pink-flowered version ('Pink Mist') is not as good - stragglier in habit and very prone to mildew.

The first scabious ever introduced was the small-flowered S. atropurpurea in 1591. This species comes from warmer areas of southern Europe. Often sultry and dark, it was given the common name "mournful widow". Although it is technically listed as a short-lived perennial, few survive my Cotswold winters so I have to treat it as an annual. Seed companies often sell mixtures of white and dark, or plummy forms under names such as 'Musical Score' and 'Beaujolais Bonnets'. There is also 'Chile Black'; these atropurpurea types often have clean white stamens that embroider their dark pincushions.

Other good garden scabious include the exuberant and man-high June-flowering Cephalaria gigantea. Long-stemmed, lemon-yellow pincushions emerge from green buds that are diamond-patterned in black - wonderful if you have enough room. I also much admire the wine-red buttons of Knautia macedonica that billow out from June onwards, getting tinier and airier as the season wears on.

How to grow

All scabious prefer well-drained soil and a sunny position. They dislike cold, wet winters. A top dressing of grit in October will aid surface drainage. However they also hate hot, humid weather and do best in temperate conditions.

S. caucasica has long stems that initially produce one large flower. But if you snip the dying flower stem back to the lowest buds, halfway down, two slightly shorter-stemmed flowers will spring from the bud axils.

Deadheading encourages plants to flower on and on. But many scabious (and related genera) set seed prolifically if left. Seeds can be collected in autumn, dried and sown the following spring without losing viability.

Both S. caucasica and S. atropurpurea will flower in their first year if sown by March; the seeds germinate easily. Pot up individual seedlings into small pots and plant out by May. Selected forms like 'Clive Greaves' need to be divided to remain true to type as any seedlings are likely to be variable. Division can be done in spring but only once the plant has begun to grow away.

Good companions

Scabious are excellent support acts for late-flowering roses. The lavender-blue flowers of 'Clive Greaves' highlight any cream and apricot roses. They also make excellent subjects for a cutting garden. Darker, dainty-flowered penstemons work well with 'Clive Greaves'; the dark 'Blackbird' or 'Evelyn' (a mid-pink with deep magenta markings) contrast well.

Soft blue also looks stunning against dark purple foliage, so growing an upright sedum like 'Purple Emperor', 'Xenox' or 'Karfunkelstein' with scabious will enhance both.

Where to buy

Hopleys Plants, Much Hadham, Hertfordshire (01279 842509; www.hopleys.co.uk).

Farmyard Nurseries, Llandysul, Carmarthenshire (01559 363389; www.farmyardnurseries.co.uk).

Macplants, Pencaitland, East Lothian (01875 341179; www.macplants.co.uk). More reader offers online telegraph.co.uk/gardening Reader offer

Reader offer

Buy six Scabiosa caucasica 'Clive Greaves' for £8.95 or 12 for £17.90 and get a further six free. Also available is S. caucasica 'Miss Willmott: buy six for £8.95 or 12 for £17.90 and get six free. Send cheques made payable to Telegraph Garden to Dept. TL735, 14 Hadfield Street, Old Trafford, Manchester, M16 9FG, or call 0161 848 1106 for debit/credit card orders, quoting ref. TL735. Module grown plants supplied. No delivery to Channel Islands or Southern Ireland. Delivery October.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Forget the calendar: spring's here


When it comes to horticulture, spring has already sprung in many Australian cities.

So you can ignore the formal start of the season on September 1 and get stuck into your spring gardening now if you want the biggest, brightest, most fragrant blooms in your street.

Most Australians tend to associate spring with the three month period starting from September, says Dr Tim Entwisle, executive director of Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens Trust. But it effectively starts a month earlier in cities with mild winters such as Sydney, Perth and Brisbane.
Dr Entwisle says many native plants start flowering in Sydney in late July, but September is the best month for other types of flowers, so there's still plenty of time to prepare your garden.

"In Sydney, if you go up into the mountains, you get a whole different climate and spring starts a month or two later than in the city," he says.

"In Melbourne, Hobart and Adelaide, wattles start in August but a lot of the spring flowering is best in September.

"Darwin doesn't really have spring: it really only has the dry and the wet.
"The start of spring varies greatly in a country as huge as Australia."

So how do you know if it is spring yet where you live? It's simple, he says: be observant and note when the first blooms appear.

"Don't get hung up on a season - you'll notice changes," he says.

"Get in tune with the seasons. Also, don't get select plants that struggle to grow in your area. Look around your neighbourhood and see what is going well.

"And no matter where you are, use lots of compost and a well mulched soil, which helps with the water restrictions that are in place across much of Australia.''

Dr Entwisle says a visit to your city's botanic gardens can provide inspiration for gardeners seeking the best flowering plants for their climate.

"Wisteria perform well - sometimes too well in Sydney - and are vigorous climbers that need training and pruning.

"However, in the right spot, they're tough and rewarding, and provide a two week window of seasonal bliss with their joyous colour. Some of the most durable flowers we've planted at the Sydney gardens include pansies, primulas and snowflakes, and shrubs such as spiraea, rondeletia, brunfelsia, heliotrope and loropetalum.

"These would grow well in most southern parts of Australia and they're flowering now."

Dr Entwisle says roses aren't suited to central Sydney and prefer drier climates such as Perth, where native paper daisies flourish, providing a riot of spring colour.

"Roses and camellias don't require a lot of water - they're tough."

Boronias, wax flowers and wattles (acacia) are out in force in August across Australia, particularly in Melbourne and Hobart, he says.

"Someone once said there is a wattle in flower somewhere in Australia at any time and that's probably true.

"Some people have a problem with hay fever but I particularly enjoy the smell of wattle - it brings back childhood memories. Also, sweet pittosporum can be weedy but it smells fantastic."

Beware with the latter species: sweet pittosporum, which is sometimes called mock orange, is considered a weed outside its native New South Wales.

Dr Entwisle says bulbs such as jonquils and tulips are coming up in Australia's southern cities. Tulips require more care than other flowering plants but are well worth it, he says.

"Here at the gardens, we keep tulip bulbs in the crisper of the fridge for between four-to-six weeks after they arrive to us from Tasmania.

"This both initiates flowering in the bulbs and improves size and quality of blooms.

"After planting the tulips, they're relatively easy to care for with few pest problems and low water requirements if they're planted in rich, improved soil."

Gardeners who want to attract birds to their garden would probably already know that grevillea does a fine job, but Dr Entwisle warns the genus could sometimes attract "pest birds".

"Indian mynas are a pest bird around Sydney that like grevillias but can take over from fairy wrens and robins," he says. "Banksias can provide a good habitat for birds, providing a tangled bush where they can hide from predators."

Monday, August 11, 2008

Gardening: Pretty in pinks


We're a fickle bunch when it comes to flowers. Styles come and go, with hybrid tea roses and dahlias among the many blooms that have risen and fallen in favour over the years - and, in some cases, risen again. One of the latest to make a comeback is the old-fashioned English pink, lovely in our gardens now in all shades of pink, red and white, with the characteristic frilly (or "pinked") edging to the petals.

Pinks have been grown in Britain for centuries. Dianthus plumarius was probably brought over by Norman monks in the 11th century and can still be found growing around ancient ruins. Widely cultivated in Elizabethan times for their sweet, spicy scent, which masks a multitude of other less lovely smells, pinks grew in popularity until by the 19th century there were hundreds of varieties. Many were raised by John Thomas Sinkins, master of the Slough Workhouse, after whose wife the beautiful double white 'Mrs Sinkins', still popular today, was named.

The main problem with the old-fashioned pinks was their short flowering period. Around the turn of the 20th century, a Sussex nurseryman, Montagu Allwood, bred the first of many modern pinks by crossing the old varieties with a perpetual-flowering carnation.

The offspring, which include the pink and dark crimson 'Doris', bright pink 'Bovey Belle' and fragrant double-lavender 'Lily the Pink', tend to have longer stems as well as more frequent flushes of flowers, making them enormously valuable for cutting.

Ironically, if the carnation helped swell the popularity of pinks, it also contributed to their downfall. Larger, showier and with longer, stronger stems, border carnations soon overtook pinks as florists' favourites. By the mid-1990s, you hardly ever saw pinks for sale as cut flowers and they were rarely, if ever, promoted at garden centres. To cap it all, as carnations became ever-more ubiquitous, their bright colours and long vase life made them the definitive supermarket or garage forecourt flower and the image of pinks began to suffer by association.

Thankfully, all that is changing. Championed at this year's Chelsea Flower Show, and now stocked by the likes of Sarah Raven (0870 1913430, www.sarahraven.com), pinks are very much back in style - from small native species such as the 'Cheddar pink' (Dianthus gratianopolitanus), with its loose mats of flat, pale pink flowers, to the fancy "laced" varieties with their contrasting edgings, to modern types in bold shades. I love to see a mixture of them, in both the vase and the border, the more intricate patterns and colour combinations alternated with pure whites, pale pinks or the odd red or purple.

The classic way to grow them is in bands edging a path, where passers-by can revel in their fragrance.

Pinks have few requirements but one of them is an alkaline, well-drained soil. If you do not have such terrain at your disposal, it might be advisable to plant in pots where you can mix in lime, grit and gravel.

For a contemporary look, try growing them in salvaged galvanized tubs and buckets; the matt silvery grey of the metal is a great foil for the grey-green leaves and shows off the range of colours to perfection. 'Gran's Favourite' - with raspberry-ripple edging to the pure white flowers - is one of the most decorative.

The boom in British-grown cut flowers has also played a part in the revival of pinks, with Waitrose selling the flowers again for the first time in a decade. The supermarket is working with a specialist grower in Lincolnshire to supply them with a range of varieties including 'Gran's Favourite', 'Bright Eyes' and 'Lily the Pink'. For the chance to win a large bunch of Waitrose pinks and a case of pink wine from the Chapel Down Winery in Kent, see our competition in the panel on this page.

Win pinks and a case of rosé

Waitrose is giving away a large bunch of deliciously scented English pinks along with a case of English rosé (Chapel Down's 'English Rose') to five lucky Sunday Telegraph readers.

To enter, simply answer the question: In which English county are Waitrose pinks grown?

Send your answer, with your name, address and telephone number to Waitrose Pinks Competition, Press Office, Waitrose Ltd, Southern Industrial Area, Bracknell, Berks, RG12 8YA, to arrive by Aug 17.

For more details of Waitrose's support of British growers, visit www.waitrose.com/blossomandbloom.

Saturday, August 9, 2008

Growing colorful clematis in smaller gardens


Clematis has been a garden favorite for centuries. By the end of the 1800s, in fact, there were more than 500 clematis cultivars available for garden use.

Of these classics, nearly 50 are still marketed, including the 1858 'Jackmanii' cultivar. Beautiful alone on a support or as a companion for roses, this antique hybrid with purple-blue flowers remains today's most popular clematis cultivar.

British nurseryman George Jackman, who introduced this large-flowered perennial in 1858, recommended training it to grow over tree stumps – which is certainly easier than removing the stumps. Not everyone has or wants old stumps on their property, so some 19th-century gardeners used 'Jackmanii' and other clematises as weaver plants. They would peg clematis to the ground to direct the vines to weave through the open spaces between flower beds.

There are many "genteel" clematises perfectly suited for easy management in compact gardens. Profiling 150 of them is Raymond J. Evison's goal in Clematis for Small Spaces, a sumptuously illustrated, deeply informed book that features shorter-growing, disease-resistant and long-flowering clematises ideal for borders, patios, decks, hanging baskets and even indoor containers.

Mr. Evison, who owns a clematis nursery in England, raises key issues when considering which species or cultivars to purchase: vine height, blooming period, flower size and color. He also offers ample cultivation advice, which can be applied to North Texas conditions.
Perhaps the biggest problem with growing clematis in North Texas is the need to offset the effects of summer heat and drought. The lack of adequate and regularly available moisture damages clematis foliage and flowers. It can also produce symptoms that mimic fungal wilt.

Clematis thrives on rainwater and insists on cool roots. One simple way to manage this requirement is to locate the vine on the northern or eastern side of a structure, such as a fence. This structure will shade clematis roots during the hottest hours of the day. You also can mulch it heavily and plant small, leafy plants at clematis' feet to shade the roots.

China might be the epicenter for clematis – most certainly originate there – but America has its own clematises. Leatherflower (C. pitcheri), for example, is a lavender-hued native of East Texas thickets that has been hybridized for gardens.

So has scarlet clematis (C. texensis), a low-climbing Edwards Plateau wildflower. It is not the easiest clematis to maintain in North Texas, but it stands out as the only known wild red-flowered clematis species in the world.


Bill Scheick is a garden writer and professor of American literature and culture at the University of Texas at Austin.

Clematis for

Small Spaces

Raymond J. Evison

flower garden

Monday, July 28, 2008

Garden paradise opened for bees


A wildlife garden which aims to boost survival rates for bumblebees has opened at the University of Stirling.

The Bumblebee Conservation Trust hope the space will act as an example to gardeners on how they can help save the threatened insect.

They have planted a range of wild flowers known to attract the bees.

Experts believe the growth in popularity of commercial bedding plants is contributing to the decline of the UK's bee population.

Lucie Southern, a conservation officer with the trust, said: "We want to encourage gardeners to consider more "cottage garden" plants and wildflowers, such as flowering heather and flowering currants in the spring, honeysuckle, foxgloves, lupins, teasel and herbs such as mint, thyme and sage in the summer, then lavender, buddleia, cornflowers and hollyhocks for the autumn.

"Lots of bedding plants have been bred to increase colour, bloom size, shape and "showiness" at the expense of the nectar which plants produce.

"And often these blooms have such complex petal configurations, that bees can't enter the flower to reach whatever nectar might exist."

Ms Southern said that if gardeners planted a couple of bumblebee-friendly plants, it would help halt their decline.

Bees pollinate the vast majority of flowering crops and wild flowers.

Without pollination, crops like beans, peas, strawberries and raspberries will fail to produce harvests.

The garden has been opened on the north side of the campus by Hermitage Wood and will be permanently accessible to the public.

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

A garden reborn


On July 4, 1996, Mark and Gina Capiello sat in rocking chairs on the deck of their house on Dune Road in Westhampton. The chairs were the only furniture they had. They drank a glass of wine and watched the fireworks. It was a magical evening.

The couple once thought they’d never sit in that spot again.

Five years earlier, during the Halloween storm of 1991, the Capiellos lost their small summer house and garden to the pounding waves. It was one of 200 homes destroyed by the storm.

Although the beach had been eroding along the ocean, their little 1950s cottage had been protected, or so they thought, by 250 feet of 20-foot-tall black pines and beautiful, deep pink roses. But after the storm, their half-acre property was barren, covered by a 5-foot layer of sand and debris. Every tree, every bush, every flower, all were gone. Not a single piece of vegetation survived.

The Capiellos began the long and arduous task of cleaning up and starting over. “We spent the next five years in rental houses while we picked up and piled debris,” Ms. Capiello said. They did not plan to rebuild their house, but “then a miracle happened.” The Army Corps of Engineers “fixed the beach.”

The Capiellos love the beach so much that they decided to build a new house—and create a new garden—on their property.

They began by planting beachgrass during the first fall and winter to help stabilize the sand. It was painstaking work—they planted thousands of grass plugs, one at a time. “It was,” said Mr. Capiello, “like planting your front lawn blade by blade.”

At the time, the Capiellos were living and working in the city and could work on their property only on the weekends. “It was good winter exercise,” Ms. Capiello said with a laugh. “Thank God we were younger then!”

The following spring, they began creating a windbreak of black pines, bayberry and autumn olive to protect what would become the new garden. They had more than 150 yards of compost dumped in a giant pile in the “front yard,” and “we took it a wheelbarrow full at a time,” Ms. Capiello said, putting it into the bottom of the holes they dug for the small trees and shrubs.

Sometimes, help arrived from unexpected quarters. One chilly fall day as they were digging away, preparing to plant 20 5-foot pines, “our friend Bruce Hubbard came by with a backhoe, pulled down our driveway and just smiled and starting digging holes,” she recalled. They planted the trees in a soft, natural pattern, close enough together to slow the force of the strong winds and trap some of the salt they carry.

Both the Capiellos had some gardening experience as kids. Ms. Capiello’s mother has always loved flowers, and the family home always had a beautiful garden, she said. When Gina was in seventh grade, the family moved to a house in Bronxville that had been owned by avid gardeners, and she has fond memories of cutting armloads of flowers to bring indoors.

Mr. Capiello learned gardening from his father. “From the time he was a child, his dad had him in the garden, planting trees, digging French drains, and working on their vegetable garden,” Ms. Capiello explained.

The Capiellos put all their gardening knowledge to work, and gained a lot more along the way. They were among the first to rebuild in what is now the Village of West Hampton Dunes.

“After a couple of years of work on our garden, we could see our trees and the curved driveway from the airplane window when we would return from our business travels abroad. It was a true oasis in the sand,” Ms. Capiello said.

The couple built raised beds and stone retaining walls, and added irrigation where they needed it. Slowly, the garden rose from the sand and took shape.

“We battled the strong winds, the salty air and the hungry deer,” Ms. Capiello said. “After 10 years of satisfying effort, our garden looks like it has always been here.”

Their “front lawn,” closest to Dune Road, is a mix of American beachgrass, beach pea, bayberry, black pines, rugosa roses, and ox-eye daisies—a favorite of Ms. Capiello. “In June,” she said, “it’s an explosion of pink and white.”

Close to the house, raised beds along the driveway are filled with perennials and shrubs. The beds are full of summer color. The perennial palette mixes reds, pinks and blues, freshened with white. The brightest red comes from the incendiary blossoms of Crocosmia Lucifer. A shrub rose, a fuchsia Meidiland variety, blooms all summer. Purply pinks are contributed by a summer phlox (Norah Leigh) and purple coneflower (

Echinacea purpurea

‘Magnus’).

On the cooler end of the spectrum are blue false indigo (

Baptisia australis

), with its pea-like flowers and rattling seed pods, and sea holly (Sapphire Blue), whose spiny-tipped steel blue flowers contribute their offbeat sculptural shapes. Bright whites come from Shasta daisies and intensely fragrant Casa Blanca lilies.

There are hostas, too, which Ms. Capiello says “are really just deer food.”

The shrubs add privacy screening along the property line, as well as color and structure. There are evergreens, including dwarf Scotch pine and a tough creeping juniper. A scattering of deciduous shrubs pumps up the color. A couple of spiraeas, the dwarf Little Princess and the golden-leaved Gold Mound both have raspberry pink flowers. A crape myrtle (Tonto) adds a pinkish red note in late summer. There are hydrangeas, too, and white-flowered viburnums, along with highbush blueberry and a crabapple tree.

At the end of the driveway, plants connect the garden to the house and invite further exploration. A climbing New Dawn rose scales a lattice screen on the front of the house, spilling over the railing of the upper deck in a cascade of pink blooms. A white clematis (Guernsey Cream) twines around a stair railing.

To avoid future flood damage, the house is raised, with storage and garage space underneath. In one of the little nooks is a gardener’s dream of a potting shed, a birthday present to Ms. Capiello from her husband. It holds a built-in potting bench and lots of shelving, with storage space for pots, tools, and other supplies.

The back of the house overlooks wetlands and Moriches Bay. The Capiellos have preserved their patch of wetland, not building a dock or keeping a boat there. As a result, according to Ms. Capiello, the wetlands grass has expanded from a small island to a large swath. Native mallows bloom along the edge of the wetlands all during June. Feeder fish attract egrets, and swans inhabit the area, too, providing year-round entertainment for the Capiellos and their guests.

The Capiellos have learned a great deal about the natural environment of the wetlands and beach, and they strive to nurture it on their property. They have embraced the native plants that have taken root on their own. “Nature has filled in a lot of the blank spots over the years,” Ms. Capiello said.

Two years ago, the Capiellos retired and moved to West Hampton Dunes full time. They joined the Barrier Beach Preservation Association, the West Hampton Dunes homeowners’ group whose mission is “to preserve and protect the beaches, bays, wetlands, and wildlife of West Hampton Dunes for the benefit of its citizens and visitors, and to promote respect for the coastal environment through public education and scientific research.”

The group takes its mission seriously. Each spring the members work with the state Department of Environmental Conservation and Cornell University’s Marine Cooperative Extension office to monitor horseshoe crabs on the beach during their mating season. With financial help from Southampton Town, they’ve developed an oyster and scallop farming program to replenish Moriches Bay, seeding the first sanctuary this spring with 20,000 shellfish. In August they have environmental programs for the children of residents. They work closely with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to protect endangered bird species, such as the piping plover, that are abundant on the barrier beach. This year they planted a demonstration garden of native plants with assistance from the Suffolk County Water Authority and Hampton Nursery.

These days, the Capiellos have more time to enjoy their garden, and to expand it.

“I have never seen a plant in a nursery that I didn’t like,” Ms. Capiello confessed. “Some women buy shoes—I buy plants!”

Some of those plants have thrived and some have died, but that is the nature of gardens. Ms. Capiello takes it all in stride. She is, she said, constantly moving plants around in the garden until she finds the spot where they grow well and look their best.

Their garden means a lot to Mark and Gina Capiello. It gives them privacy, which is important in the village, where the houses are close together.

“It’s fun to watch the garden grow, but after a raid by the deer we also know that it is a temporary joy that needs to be savored every day,” Ms. Capiello said.

The couple are grateful for having the time to enjoy their garden each day. Some days there’s even time for a glass of wine at sunset.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Patra's paradise


Steve Whysall, Vancouver Sun
Published: Friday, July 18, 2008
Patra DeSilva thinks her roof garden overlooking the marina at Granville Island in downtown Vancouver looks magical, especially at night when strategically-placed lighting turns it into a veritable fairyland of colours and textures.

But the garden, which occupies 3,000 square feet on the terrace of DeSilva's two-bedroom condo, is an astonishing work of beauty any time of day.

And there is certainly something magical about the way you enter it. One minute you're walking along the featureless corridor of a typical apartment complex with its concrete walls and the sound of elevator doors closing behind you.

The next, you're stepping across a bed of pebbles through lush plantings of rosemary, salvia and fuchsias and through a woodland of dogwood, magnolia and maple trees.

The transition from boring apartment corridor to sumptuous garden oasis is astonishing. It makes you look back to see if it is really happening.

The transformation is reminiscent of the dramatic change of scenery in the story The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe when Lucy pushes through old fur coats and ends up in the glistening magical kingdom of Narnia. Once through the entrance, you come face to face with a mesmerizing spectacle -- more than 80 kinds of roses, from hybrid teas to floribundas, shrub to tree roses, in a sensational splash of colour.

Next you become aware of the large number of trees. DeSilva has planted a forest of choice specimens -- ginkgo, robinia, fig, mulberry, redbud, dogwood, Japanese maple, corkscrew willow, southern magnolia and maytree (Prunus padus).

She has even found a spot for the humungous empress tree (Paulownia tomentosum) and she is giving the tender blue fernleaf acacia (Acacia baileyana) a try.

In other places, large shrubs catch the eye. There's a mature French lilac (Syringa 'Charles Joly') and superb Crytomeria japonica 'Elegans' with its lovely golden foliage.

A big rhododendron provides spring colour around the same time all the white- and purple-flowered magnolias bloom. And the floriferous Hydrangea 'Endless Summer' pumps out blooms all summer while Sumac 'Tiger Eyes' offers great foliage interest as well as striking fall colour.

There all sorts of other visual treats including a yellow-flowering fremontodendron over a metal arch and a purple Osier willow billowing up into a cloud of frothy blue foliage.

The roof garden also has two ponds, one stocked with koi. They occupy opposite ends of the garden and are designed to create serenity and tranquility as well as provide "white noise" to mask traffic noise.

But it is the abundance and sheer flamboyance of all the roses that make the garden so breathtaking. All the plants are grouped together in well-defined colonies of containers to form distinct island beds of flower colour and foliage texture. Roses include 'Tuscan Sun', 'Voluptuous', 'Aroma Therapy', 'Sheila's Perfume', 'Margaret Merrill' and 'Lime Sublime.'

The exposure is ideal with an abundance of sunshine for the roses as well as gentle breezes for good air circulation.

Summer annuals such as calebrachoa, Cerinthe major, nicotiana, impatiens and lobelia have been dotted throughout as stand-alone features or to add flashes of colour under plants.

DeSilva cuts back all the floribundas and hybrid teas to about 30 cm every fall. The tree-roses (rose standards) are cut back to the main hub and the shrub roses are lightly trimmed.

None of the roses are wrapped for winter or moved into frost-free quarters. The only cold-treatment they get is a light layer of bark mulch to cover the crown of each rose.

In spring, DeSilva scrapes away a few inches of soil and replenishes it with SeaSoil, an enriched soil mix produced on Vancouver Island. She feeds the roses with fish fertilizer and Miracle Grow in summer.

Watering is a major commitment. It takes DeSilva 21/2 hours every day. "I like doing it. I find it very relaxing. And I have a method, so I have got it down to an art."

Despite the amazing number of plants on the rooftop, there is still plenty of space to walk around.

Close to the entrance, a dining area inside an elegant arbour has a canopy of rippling organza over it, giving the spot an inviting Mediterranean-villa vibe.

Other seating areas include a swing settee with brightly coloured cushions and a quaint metal tete-a-tete bench.

Decorative art work has been placed throughout the garden. There's glass art produced by a student of Portland glass artist Dale Chihuly and a leaping frog that spurts water into a pond. Elsewhere, plinths, columns, plaques and statues all style andstructural definition.

With unimpeded views of yachts moored in the marina at Granville Island and with the urban architecture of Burrard Bridge and highrises on the north side of False Creek, the roof garden is frequently used for dinner parties and soirees. DeSilva says it can accommodate 50 guests comfortably.

The garden spills over to other areas at the front and side -- DeSilva calls it her "outside 40" -- where lavender is grown in terracotta troughs and narrow borders are filled with trees, shrubs and perennials to give the main garden more privacy.

What about the weight of all these plants? DeSilva says engineers have checked and given the garden their okay, but she makes a point of using super-lightweight containers and always mixes her own soil to work in more pumice and fast-draining material to reduce weight.

The impact of the garden is all the more impressive when you realize it was only in 2004 that DeSilva and her husband, Barry, moved into the condo after selling up in West Vancouver.

"Some people say, 'What a lot of work', but I think of it as a labour of love. It gives me enormous pleasure," says DeSilva.

swhysall@png.canwest.com

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Q: Can you help with our persistent and pervasive problem of morning glory? After two years of hard work we have not managed to get rid of it. Roundup and Killex has no effect.

SW: You have my total sympathy. Morning glory (Calystegia sepia) is also known as blindweed and devil's gut.

It is truly a nightmare of a weed to eradicate. Studies have found its roots can go as deep as 20 feet, which is very disconcerting if you're considering re-digging an area.

Roundup is supposed to work. Killex is less effective. The recommended method is to take a plastic bag, tuck some of the vine into the bag, spray the leaves with Roundup, then tie the bag tightly.

Being systemic, Roundup is supposed to kill the weed within 10 days internally by disrupting its cell structure. However, it is banned as a pesticide in some areas, although is still available in various sizes at GardenWorks stores.

An organic approach -- the one I use, with mixed success -- is to continually cut the vine down to ground level the moment it raises its head.

By denying it light, you ultimately weaken its root system and it is supposed to die from lack of energy. You must also stop it flowering and cut it at the base to sap its strength and prevent it seeding.

Unfortunately, I have to say it frequently escapes my attention and manages to get a chokehold on a beautiful clematis in my garden.

It takes an enormous effort to detach it without hurting the clematis. If I pull at the bindweed indignantly, I end up pulling away great clematis flowers. Very frustrating.

I am told pigs are great at clearing ground of morning glory. They sift through the soil, eating the shoots until it is gone forever.

Q: What is eating the leaves of my roses? They have been chomped into almost perfect half circles or ovals. Does this damage the plant?

SW: This is the work of female leaf-cutter bees. These are solitary creatures that cut the leaves of roses and use the pieces to make little cells in the ground for their offsprings.

These bees like rose leaves, especially it seems, old-garden roses. The leaves are cut very efficiently. The slice is smooth with no ragged edges. Leaf-cutter bees do no serious harm to a rose bush. If you have them, it's a sign that the environment is working as it should. A few chomped leaves is no big deal. Next time, try to see if you can spot the bee at work. It's quite an interest spectacle.

ONLINE: Remember, you can download an In the Garden podcast by Steve Whysall from www.VancouverSun.com

This week, the Nitobe Garden at UBC is featured; it is the sixth episode in a series of tours of top gardens in Metro Vancouver.

ONLINE: See a photo gallery of Patra DeSilva's roof garden at VancouverSun.com

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Baby-sit a beautiful butterfly this summer


You can raise a caterpillar and watch the fascinating process of metamorphosis right at home, says Chris Lewis, education director at the Virginia Living Museum in Newport News. If you have parsley or fennel in your yard, you probably have black swallowtail caterpillars that eat plants in the parsley family (parsley, fennel and carrot leaves).

Materials

Black swallowtail caterpillar

Plastic "critter carrier" at least 10 inches tall, with a vented top (available at most pet supply stores)
8 oz clean plastic margarine tub with plastic lid filled with wet sand

A continuous supply of fresh caterpillar food (parsley or fennel leaves from the grocery store)

A stick the size of a pencil

Setting up the "nursery"

Make holes in the top of the margarine tub large enough for the stems of your caterpillar food plants to fit through. Put the top on the margarine container filled with wet sand and push the plant stems into the sand for support. Place the container with the food plants inside the critter carrier.

Gently pick up the caterpillar and place it on the food plant in the plastic tub. (When disturbed, a black swallowtail caterpillar may stick out two soft orange organs that contain a strong smelling but harmless substance.) Make sure the caterpillar is holding on to the leaves before you let go. Put the top on the critter carrier and place it in a warm, bright but shady place.

Caterpillars grow quickly and eat a lot so check the nursery every day. Replace the food with fresh leaves as often as necessary and clean out the caterpillar waste which looks like small dark pellets. As the caterpillar grows it will shed its skin (molt) several times. It only takes about 14 days from the day the egg hatches for the caterpillar to turn into a chrysalis.

The Big Change

Just before it changes into a chrysalis, the caterpillar will stop eating. When this happens, add the stick (at a slight angle) to the margarine container. The caterpillar will crawl up the stick, lean back, then spin a silk "belt" around its middle and a sticky pad for it's 'feet.' Next it will change into a brown chrysalis which will be supported by the silk. Once it turns into a chrysalis, you can carefully remove and discard the food plants. Try not to disturb the chrysalis.

In another 10 to14 days, the chrysalis will open and a new black swallowtail butterfly with small, wrinkled wings will emerge. Over the next few hours, the butterfly will pump fluid from its body into its wings to unfold them.

The next day, the butterfly will be ready to release. Take the critter carrier to a sunny sheltered spot and open the top If the butterfly doesn't fly away on its own, gently encourage it to step onto your finger then place it on an open flower in the garden.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Flower thief strikes three times


Jamie Hall, edmontonjournal.com
Published: Wednesday, June 25
EDMONTON - Whoever stole Maria Berardi's flowers for the third year running would be well advised to go to ground and stay there.

As Berardi herself puts it: "I'm old but I'm still in good form. And I'm Italian; you don't want to make me mad, and, believe me, I'm mad."

Three years ago, when a thief excised all the flowers from the garden beds in front of her Mill Woods home, she was angry, but philosophical.

Last year, when it happened again, she was devastated.

This year, she called the police.

With any luck, they'll find the thief before she does.

"One time is one thing, but three times? Now it's personal," said Berardi.

Thanks to Const. Carol Weir, who delivered a floral donation from the Millcreek Nursery on Tuesday, and Berardi's daughter, who showed up with a trunkful of flowers, the beds are again a growing concern. Her children are also talking about installing a strategically placed security camera at the front of the house.

But the whole thing is still a mystery.

Every year, the flowers have been removed with surgical precision, the holes left behind perfectly formed yet dug deep enough to scoop out the plants' roots. Whoever committed this horticultural crime is likely the same person and needed tools, and the time to carry it out, seemingly with the intention of replanting.

If they did, they don't live nearby; Berardi has combed her entire neighbourhood twice over, standing on tiptoe to peer over fences into people's backyards.

"These aren't vandals doing this; if it was kids they would just pull them out and throw them away," said Berardi.

"Why would someone do this?"

Except for her exotic geraniums, the flowers, for the most part, were garden-variety annuals. Berardi intentionally purchased "cheap stuff" this year, worried the thief would strike again.

Maggie Easton, the president of the Edmonton Horticultural Society, is as puzzled as Berardi by the theft.

Childish pranks notwithstanding, this isn't something she's heard about from her members.

"Maybe it's someone who doesn't want to pay the money nurseries are charging these days for flowers," Easton said.

That's Kerri Buksa's guess, too, who said this sort of theft is quite common, committed by the same type of people who siphon gas from the tanks of cars.

"The bottom line is that some people just don't want to pay," said Buksa, who works for Greenland Garden Centre.

jhall@thejournal.canwest.com