
Q: We are building a new house, and it is taking longer than expected. Right now the topsoil is scraped away, and the subsoil is compacted like cement from all the heavy equipment. This hard-packed soil does not drain well, and puddles sit around after it rains. Do you think we should bring in extra topsoil now to improve this situation or wait until spring?
-- J.B., e-mail
M.B.: Wait. Moving, working or tilling any soil during wet winter weather can damage the structure and air pockets. This may destroy the tilth or compact even the best topsoils. When the winter rains stop and you are done with heavy equipment, add topsoil high in organic matter. The more compost you can add to your compacted subsoil, the better. Organic matter is the great equalizer that both loosens compacted and clay soils and enriches sandy, loose soils, so that both can hold moisture but still allow for air and drainage. When soils like yours have already been compacted, you can save money with a design that takes poor drainage into consideration. Think raised beds and planting berms of topsoil with gravel paths and swales that can channel rainwater.
-- J.B., e-mail
M.B.: Wait. Moving, working or tilling any soil during wet winter weather can damage the structure and air pockets. This may destroy the tilth or compact even the best topsoils. When the winter rains stop and you are done with heavy equipment, add topsoil high in organic matter. The more compost you can add to your compacted subsoil, the better. Organic matter is the great equalizer that both loosens compacted and clay soils and enriches sandy, loose soils, so that both can hold moisture but still allow for air and drainage. When soils like yours have already been compacted, you can save money with a design that takes poor drainage into consideration. Think raised beds and planting berms of topsoil with gravel paths and swales that can channel rainwater.
Q: I saw the coolest flower at a local florist, and I was told it is called a protea. I bought just one stem and enjoyed it indoors as a cut flower for weeks. The blossom was huge, unusual and colorful, and I want to grow this plant in my yard. Where can I find seeds or young plants?
-- T., e-mail
M.B.: Hold on to your dreams, but get your feet back on the ground, because protea is a beautiful but tropical plant that will not survive the winters in our Northwest climate. You would need a heated greenhouse and some skill to grow this heat-loving plant, which is native to Australia and Africa. To soothe your fever for a tropical touch, I suggest some winter-hardy shrubs with a jungle jingle, such as hardy hibiscus, bold-leaved cannas, bananas and colorful lantanas or the unusual Australian blooms from Eucomis bulbs (also called pineapple lily). These have been overwintering quite happily in Puget Sound area gardens, except when the temperature dips really low. If you want easy-to-grow houseplants with an exotic flair, check out the many types of bromeliads. Unlike the protea, bromeliads will adapt and bloom during the winter months despite the lack of a greenhouse. And you can always treat yourself to those fabulous cut proteas from the florist.
Q: We have a big old forsythia bush, and I would like to cut it back and get it under control. What would be the best time of year to do this?
-- L.M., Enumclaw
M.B.: Anytime the shears are sharp and in your hands. Forsythias are forgiving shrubs and will survive the most horrific haircuts, no matter when you prune them. I always like to suggest that forsythias and quince be pruned in January or early February, so that the cut branches can be brought indoors and placed in a tall vase of warm water. In a few days the bare whips will burst into bloom. Forcing forsythia each winter is a beautiful way to control the size of your shrub. Pruning after blooming also is recommended because the growth flush after the flowers fade will quickly cover up any pruning scars. But even if you prune your forsythia in summer or fall, the shrub will survive. However, it may pout a bit and punish you by withholding flowers for a year.
-- T., e-mail
M.B.: Hold on to your dreams, but get your feet back on the ground, because protea is a beautiful but tropical plant that will not survive the winters in our Northwest climate. You would need a heated greenhouse and some skill to grow this heat-loving plant, which is native to Australia and Africa. To soothe your fever for a tropical touch, I suggest some winter-hardy shrubs with a jungle jingle, such as hardy hibiscus, bold-leaved cannas, bananas and colorful lantanas or the unusual Australian blooms from Eucomis bulbs (also called pineapple lily). These have been overwintering quite happily in Puget Sound area gardens, except when the temperature dips really low. If you want easy-to-grow houseplants with an exotic flair, check out the many types of bromeliads. Unlike the protea, bromeliads will adapt and bloom during the winter months despite the lack of a greenhouse. And you can always treat yourself to those fabulous cut proteas from the florist.
Q: We have a big old forsythia bush, and I would like to cut it back and get it under control. What would be the best time of year to do this?
-- L.M., Enumclaw
M.B.: Anytime the shears are sharp and in your hands. Forsythias are forgiving shrubs and will survive the most horrific haircuts, no matter when you prune them. I always like to suggest that forsythias and quince be pruned in January or early February, so that the cut branches can be brought indoors and placed in a tall vase of warm water. In a few days the bare whips will burst into bloom. Forcing forsythia each winter is a beautiful way to control the size of your shrub. Pruning after blooming also is recommended because the growth flush after the flowers fade will quickly cover up any pruning scars. But even if you prune your forsythia in summer or fall, the shrub will survive. However, it may pout a bit and punish you by withholding flowers for a year.
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